ericd000

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Everything posted by ericd000

  1. Good to know that on the temps. I'd read (curse you internet!!!!) that wasn't the case, but possibly that's specific to the strains that Dr Tim's uses. I ended up cycling with Turbo Start from Fritz because I'd wasted come money on ordering Dr Tim's too early for my build... twice, and I was able to get the Turbo Start on short notice locally
  2. You may not have enough rock in the system or the rock isn't porous enough for the bacteria to colonize quickly enough, or you had too much ammonia input initially, or not enough Dr Tim's was used. Give it time, add more rock (or some Marine Pure blocks\cubes\balls to the sump) or add more bacteria. Also the bacteria may have gotten too hot, cold, or expired. Dr. Tim's has a 6 month shelf life at room temp. 1 yr if refrigerated. If it got much over 90 degrees, then much of the viable bacteria may have died off. If it gets below 35 or so, it will also start to die off.
  3. Typically I think you want it to be between 1-2ppm ammonia for fishless cycling with most bacteria in a bottle. Any higher than that, you are wasting money, as the bioload won't sustain the bacteria colonies and may lead to a collapse as you slowly add fish, and trigger a mini-cycle, stressing stuff out further. I think you are good on this one, so long as you are patient with the cycle. Adding more ammonia now might just prolong it. Are you testing Nitrites/Nitrates to see if the ammonia is being converted? Amazon or BRS for Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride if you need it for cycling a tank down the road. Some people claim they were ready for fish in a week with Dr Tim's and other products. It took me about 3 weeks before I was sure my nitrites/nitrates were in line, but I had over 500 gallons of water and nearly 300lbs of rock with 200lbs of sand.
  4. Great update Greg! Looks like they installed the same genny they installed for me. Definitely helps with your peace of mind while traveling and the like.
  5. Looking good Kirk. Wish you had decent internet so we could get more frequent updates
  6. *Gives Greg the side eye from the corner*
  7. Yeah, I recall your fiasco with them Kirk. Didn't realize it was the 300DD 'clone' of theirs. The quote was for 3/4" glass, with the perimeter eurobracing and 2 glass center braces, which is one of the reasons why I didn't go with low iron for the front. Said the price jumps like $1000 for that in 3/4" while it was less than $300 for low iron in 1/2"
  8. Glad you got the ReefLink figured out. I had more trouble getting my Vortecs to link to mine than the lights. Mostly because I had been running them via my Apex WXM module prior to getting the ReefLink with the lights. As for the Auto Shut off on the RODI, I can't really help much there. I use swing arm floats for my shut off inside my water containers, have worked flawlessly for years. Are you running the RODI straight to your sump or something like that?
  9. If you are trying to use the ReefLink, you may have to do a reset on the light and have the ReefLink rediscover after that.
  10. Some of your images aren't coming over
  11. Planet, and pretty much anyone else won't warranty a tank if its not on a stand they built. The stand I have is solid and built like an Abrams tank, and replacing that would have more than doubled the cost, given what they charge for steel stands. From what John tells me, Planet purposely overbuilds these tanks so they won't leak like the tanks they are meant to replace.
  12. Apparently this sort of issue has been somewhat common with the Marineland tanks of this size. Enough so that Planet Aquariums has a model they can quickly build to replace one with the exact dimensions, and bracing etc... The leak is at the bottom inside the trim near the back right corner. Same area that was accumulating moisture towards the end of that final 'leak test' before filling with salt. Thought it was just salt creep grabbing water from the air before. This time I'm positive it wasn't that Its definitely pressure related, as very little water has been observed once it was drained to less than 25% full.
  13. Nice! I have to say I was concerned when I saw the first few pics, but looks like you got it handled. Hoping that AC keeps those temps stable. It's been a scorcher of a summer so far.
  14. The leak was found when I got home from work on 7/30. I was scheduled to work late and that got cancelled due to the vendor. So I got home around 8pm instead of the 12am or later that I was expecting. The leak was steady, but not a catastrophic failure. When I got home there was only a few gallons that had made it to the floor. I promptly made the call to drain the tank and move the fish and coral to other tanks in the system. I caught out all the fish except the Royal Gramma (couldn't that sneaky little bugger) and split them between the frag tank and the refugium. Then I pumped out about 200 gallons of water from the display. Once the water level was down to around 100 gallons in the tank, the leaking slowed substantially. I was able to direct the leak into a bucket by sliding a paper towel into the gap between the trim and glass in the leaking corner and hanging it over the bucket. Water wicked just how I needed it to and over the next few days I only had to empty the bucket 4-5 times of 2-4 gallons each. After that the dripping stopped completely. So I've got a new tank being built by Planet Aquariums that I'm hoping will be delivered to Aqua Hut by 9/6 or so. I'm not going anywhere!
  15. I've held off posting this for a couple of weeks, but I need to get it out there... The bad news: It's been a pretty bad few months for my system. Steady slow coral deaths and an equipment failure...