ericd000

Administrators
  • Content Count

    1,986
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by ericd000

  1. This is the Conrad Hilton in Maldives Can't find any pricing info on the room right now, but I remember reading about it earlier this year and seem to recall it was in the $4k- $5k per night range. There is an undersea resturaunt also.
  2. I thought it was bad until I saw some of the pics here... lol :laughing-rolling: I actually run 2 dual switch ATO setups in my sump. I T'd off the line from my reservoir, to connect to separate AquaLifters. One feeds directly to the tank, the other through Kalk reactor. I have the Apex set to turn one on and the other off when the pH of the tank reaches a certain value. Reservoir is a 16 gallon rubbermaid like container with a bulkhead in the bottom plumbed down to 1/4" tubing. I usually only put in about 10-12 gallons at a time. It lasts about 5-7 days right now, when not so hot, I could get 10 days out of it. I have the following on my Apex: Ehiem 1262 main pump Marineland 775gph pump that feeds manifold 2x MP40s - sides 1x MP10 - back titanium heater Reef Octopus skimmer Kalk reactor Refugium light ozone generator (currently turned off because I've been too lazy to calibrate my ORP probe...) Pump to circulate top-off container water (I think it's a 300gph Catalina) 2x aqua-lifter pumps for dual top-off Cooling fan (on when tank hits 79.1) 2x AR LED fixtures. Not connected to the Apex outlets: EcoTech Vortech battery backup Wireless bridge to connect Apex to home network I think that covers all of my outlets.
  3. Sheesh, and I thought under my stand was bad with all the wires... Here's the video I shot of my biopellet reactor, it has some shots of my wiring too. I'll need to fix the pics on my build thread and bring it over from the other site soon. Just been too busy/lazy to do that.
  4. My orange monti went white in two spots last week. Maybe about the size of a half a quarter. One spot was right above where a hermit kept getting wedged, another was on the opposite side of the colony right where it connected to the live rock. I had broke off about an inch in the vicinity a week prior to that, so that may have started it. I've not noticed any more receding since the first 2 days though.
  5. After I built my first sump with a refugium, I learned that the area was nowhere near sufficient for significant nitrate export/reduction. For a 120G tank, it would probably take a 55-60G refugium alone, with DSB and tons of macro. Even so, I kept the fuge, because with my love for wrasses and the mandarins I want to keep, tumbling chaeto in the fuge, is great for pod production. When I replaced my sump last month, I removed the sand, as it wasn't necessary, and the bio pellets should more than make up for the lack of it.
  6. I would still keep a fuge for pods. If the chaeto dies, then I'd use live rock rubble and periodically take a turkey baster to them to dislodge pods. I shake my chaeto now to accomplish the same thing.
  7. That is some amazing growth after only 14 months. You must be doing something right Greg.
  8. From what I've read, the color of the coraline is dependent on the lighting color temperature of your setup. If it is more into the blue spectrum, then you will grow more purple, as that is the color that penetrates deeper in the ocean. In my 120 the purple coraline only grows in the areas that are mostly shaded from the white lamps of my LEDs. And then only in small patches. My rocks are almost covered in red/maroon coraline though. So I'm guessing my color temp with all lights on is probably in the 10K-12k range.
  9. I usually do 30 gallons every 4 - 6 weeks. Last change was on 7/1. Might go a little longer till next change since I started the biopellet reactor on 7/1 also, along with a sump change.
  10. I had a battle with Cyano growing on my rocks in an area that had massive flow. Even had it growing on powerheads. I run a fuge and used to stock it with chaeto and caulerpa. I used to see cyano growing on top of the macro in the fuge, but nowhere else in there. last time I pruned it I removed as much caulerpa that I could. Left with mostly only chaeto, the cyano went away in about 10 days. I still had a small amt of caulerpa in the fuge, but I tossed my sea hare in there last weekend, and I almost cannot see any left, other than a few of the floating caulerpa-ball thingies.
  11. I noticed while my nutrients are getting lower, I'm starting to see more bubble algae in my tank. I'm down to 2-3 emeralds and those don't seem to be doing anything with them. I had 7 or 8 at one point but they started dieing off a few months back. I'd come home and one would be upside down in one corner of the tank. Could have just been age. Most of them were pretty good size for emeralds. Haven't seen anywhere around here with them on hand lately. Mark hasn't gotten any in for quite a while and AquaHut doesn't have any. Didn't see any the last few times I went to Ron's either.
  12. you can use either. The reactor is more efficient than the bag, but a reactor is not required.
  13. I use BRS ROX also. ChemiPure Elite is basically carbon mixed with a phosphate/nitrate reducer right? I find it's expensive compared to using straight carbon in a reactor.
  14. Very nice. Looks like Filamented Flasher Wrasse. I had one for a while. I loved that fish.
  15. Was the shrinp cooked or raw? I think a raw shrimp does the job quicker.
  16. I started my tank with Tropic Marin Pro and liked the salt, not the price. Then I got cheap and tried the Red Sea Coral Pro. It left a ton of residue in my water containers as opposed to the TMPro. I was about to go back to TMPro when Ron was running special on AquaVitro Salinity. I picked up 3 buckets from the same batch last March or April (my work bonus and nice tax refund came in the same week.) I've been using that ever since. It doesn't mix quite as clear as that first bucket of TMPro I used but it's nowhere near as bad as the Red Sea Coral Pro. I still have a quater bucket of the Red Sea stuff. I just cracked open the 3rd bucket of Salinity a couple weeks back. I do a 30 gallon water change every 3-6 weeks depending on water paramenters. Yes, I tend to be a lazy reefer sometimes. I also immediately refill and mix a new batch of water after doing a water change. I keep two 32 gallon Brute containers for salt water. One stays full for changes, the other is for small emergency water changes and to replace water I take out of the tank when acclimating fish or corals.
  17. I had this problem when I started my tank. I lost no corals, but no fish (clowns) would live in the tank. Would stop eating after a few hours in the tank, then get lethargic and die in a few days. When I replaced my sump, I ran GFO and Carbon. Ron over at Reef Coral said that Wes ran GFO/Carbon to help pull the impurities from the water. Did it work for me? Well I have only lost fish since then from bullying by other fish.
  18. 120 gallon tank. 48x24x24. 2 MP40s, one on each end. Both on reef crest most of the time but periodically switch to NTM. I run mine at about 80%. If I run them much higher, i dig a trench in my sandbed between a couple of rocks in the center. My MP40s are on anti-sync also. Thinking of putting my lone MP10 on the back glass to get a little more flow over the SPS on the rocks. Still seeming to have SPS dieing off in patches... Even though the polyps are all over the place in the current. I have a question, I was looking at some tank pics on here and noticed that a couple of you guys seem to have your Vortecs offset from the center of the glass on the end. Is there a reason for this that I'm not aware of?