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Posts posted by ericd000

  1. 3 hours ago, Saltforbrains said:

    I emailed Dr.Tim and talked to him and he said the highest heat the bacteria can withstand is 130-140° so even with our wonderful Louisiana heat the bacteria can still survive. 


    I picked up some Bio spira (spelling)

    And added it to the tank to see if it would help any. I also ordered some Marine pure to put in the sump. Only reason I got those is because the wife got a bunny yesterday ?


    Good to know that on the temps.  I'd read (curse you internet!!!!) that wasn't the case, but possibly that's specific to the strains that Dr Tim's uses.  


    I ended up cycling with Turbo Start from Fritz because I'd wasted come money on ordering Dr Tim's too early for my build... twice, and I was able to get the Turbo Start on short notice locally :P


  2. You may not have enough rock in the system or the rock isn't porous enough for the bacteria to colonize quickly enough, or you had too much ammonia input initially, or not enough Dr Tim's was used.  

    Give it time, add more rock (or some Marine Pure blocks\cubes\balls to the sump) or add more bacteria.  


    Also the bacteria may have gotten too hot, cold, or expired.  Dr. Tim's has a 6 month shelf life at room temp. 1 yr if refrigerated.  If it got much over 90 degrees, then much of the viable bacteria may have died off.  If it gets below 35 or so, it will also start to die off.  

  3. Typically I think you want it to be between 1-2ppm ammonia for fishless cycling with most bacteria in a bottle. Any higher than that, you are wasting money, as the bioload won't sustain the bacteria colonies and may lead to a collapse as you slowly add fish, and trigger a mini-cycle, stressing stuff out further.  

    I think you are good on this one, so long as you are patient with the cycle.  Adding more ammonia now might just prolong it.

    Are you testing Nitrites/Nitrates to see if the ammonia is being converted?


    Amazon or BRS for Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride if you need it for cycling a tank down the road. 


    Some people claim they were ready for fish in a week with Dr Tim's and other products.  It took me about 3 weeks before I was sure my nitrites/nitrates were in line, but I had over 500 gallons of water and nearly 300lbs of rock with 200lbs of sand.  



  4. 3 minutes ago, kirk_m said:



    He's full of BAD WORD.  Remember the first two 300DD tanks I had Planet build me that weren't right?  They were both the 300DD clones.  Well, the first one was built to specs that I asked, with 3/4" thick glass and perimeter Eurobracing, plus two center braces.  Since they put two overflow boxes on it, it got sent back.  


    Well, the replacement tank was built with just the one overflow as I asked, but they used 1/2" thick glass.  So it got sent back too...but not after Jerry @ Planet Aquariums tried to convince me that I should keep it, because that's how they build all of their 300DD tanks, using 1/2" thick glass.  Sorry, 1/2" thick glass BOWS under that kind of water pressure, just like in the 1/2" thick marineland Deep Dimension tanks.  So, they blow a seam just like this.


    I hope you had him build it with 3/4", even though it's more expensive.


    Yeah, I recall your fiasco with them Kirk.  Didn't realize it was the 300DD 'clone' of theirs.  

    The quote was for 3/4" glass, with the perimeter eurobracing and 2 glass center braces, which is one of the reasons why I didn't go with low iron for the front.  Said the price jumps like $1000 for that in 3/4" while it was less than $300 for low iron in 1/2"


  5. Glad you got the ReefLink figured out.  I had more trouble getting my Vortecs to link to mine than the lights.  Mostly because I had been running them via my Apex WXM module prior to getting the ReefLink with the lights.


    As for the Auto Shut off on the RODI, I can't really help much there.  I use swing arm floats for my shut off inside my water containers, have worked flawlessly for years. 

    Are you running the RODI straight to your sump or something like that? 

  6. Planet, and pretty much anyone else won't warranty a tank if its not on a stand they built.  The stand I have is solid and built like an Abrams tank, and replacing that would have more than doubled the cost, given what they charge for steel stands.  

    From what John tells me, Planet purposely overbuilds these tanks so they won't leak like the tanks they are meant to replace.

  7. 6 hours ago, 110reef said:

    Eric - so sorry to hear. Do you know where the leak is coming from or what caused it?




    Apparently this sort of issue has been somewhat common with the Marineland tanks of this size.  Enough so that Planet Aquariums has a model they can quickly build to replace one with the exact dimensions, and bracing etc...


    The leak is at the bottom inside the trim near the back right corner.  Same area that was accumulating moisture towards the end of that final 'leak test' before filling with salt.  Thought it was just salt creep grabbing water from the air before.  This time I'm positive it wasn't that :)   Its definitely pressure related, as very little water has been observed once it was drained to less than 25% full.