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About BayouBeard

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  • Birthday 07/28/1983

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    Madison, AL
  1. I've heard alot about garlic boosting the immune system for fish and know it's in the food I feed (NLS & SA) would the fish benefit from using this stuff as a soak?
  2. For me...the diatoms showed up around the 8 to 10 week mark. It took around 6 weeks to complete my fishless cycle and another 2 or 3 for the diatoms to show up.
  3. Ive got 80 lbs of it in my 75 gallon and love it! Like you handles flow very well...I'm running an Eheim 1262 return pump and haven't had any problems with it.
  4. Yeah...that's kinda what I was thinking myself. Just wanted to make sure that I'm not rushing into anything. Thanks for everyone's help...water change and fish time!
  5. Sorry...I got so focused on my water parameters that I forgot about the other The display tank is 75 gallons with 70 lbs of dry base rock and 60 lbs of dry aragonite sand. I'm also running a 40B sump with 25 gallons of water in it. I read somewhere that when fishless cycling, the ammonia to nitrite to nitrate cycle should complete within 24 hours to consider the tank fully cycled. I'm guessing that 2.0ppm ammonia is alot more than 3 juvenile blue/greeen reef chromis are ever going to put out in 100 gallons of water.
  6. My DT has been fishless cycling since 07/23/2013 with ACE brand 10% ammonia. I initially dosed to 2ppm ammonia with the temperature steady at 79.3°F, pH at 8.2, and SG at 1.022. After 8 days at 2ppm my ammonia levels had dropped to 1.0ppm and nitrites were at 5.0ppm (this was as high as the test kit would read). The following day the ammonia dropped to 0.5ppm and I dosed back up to 2.0ppm that day and every three days or so after that as this was the amount of time it took to cycle it down to 0.0ppm. It wasn't until 08/27/13 that I saw a drop in nitrites and yesterday they dropped completely to 0.0ppm with nitrates showing up at 160ppm. I dosed the tank back up to 2.0ppm last night at 1730 and tested this afternoon at 1700 with ammonia gone at 0.0ppm but nitrites still at 5.0ppm. My question is what happens now? My ammonia has been cycling out within 24 hours for almost 2 weeks, but the nitrites have just started to drop as of last week. Will the nitrites take a while until they are able to be cycled out within 24 hours? Also, will the high nitrates slow things down or possibly stall the cycle, and if so, should I do a large water change to bring them down? My thinking is that the bacteria that convert nitrites to nitrates still need some time to colonize, so it's more or less another waiting game but that it shouldn't take much longer. Does that sound about right?
  7. Thanks Shayne....I'm anxious to get her stocked as well! Here's a couple pictures of the tank while the back glass was being painted. You can see the tape where the holes were drilled for the overflow box and the return line. I used Krylon Fusion in Satin Black.
  8. Yeah...I do plan on building a small cabinet to go next to the stand to house an ATO reservoir. That'll be later on down the road though.
  9. Thanks...I appreciate it! As you can see...the plywood top is nowhere to be found. Long story short...I bought a 75 gallon AGA tank on sale from my local Petco...and it didn't make it past the leak check. It decided to wait until the tank was completely full to spring a leak on the bottom corner seam. By the time I had the tank drained enough to move it...water had ruined the plywood top. So as you can see...I replaced it with 3/4" high density closed cell insulation foam. I cut out the center kinda like a picture frame so that it only contacts the bottom trim. It actually worked out really well. They replaced the old tank no questions asked and all is well now.
  10. I decided to stain the stand to match the floors and furniture in our living room. Hah...who am I kidding...that was the only way the wife was going to let me put it in the living room. I used a 40 breeder for the sump and siliconed in a simple two pane bubble trap. The left side is open for the skimmer and reactors while the right side is for the return pump. I have yet to build the doors...but they'll eventually get done.
  11. Here is the frame with the skin and all the trim in place. I used 1/2 inch birch plywood for the front and sides and 1x3 pine for the trim on top and bottom. I hid all the plywood seams on the corners with 1 inch pine outside corner molding. All the skin and trim minus the corner molding was nailed and glued in place using 6d finishing nails. I used 3d finishing nails for the corner molding. All nails were counter sunk and filled with stainable wood filler as were the seams on the front panels of plywood.
  12. Finally! Now that the tank is cycling, I'll post up pics of the progress up to this point. Here is the frame for the stand along with the top and bottom boards that support the DT and sump. All the vertical supports are doubled up 2x4s and the top and bottom frames are 2x6s. I went with the 2x6s on the upper and lower frames to compensate the 4 foot span without any center bracing. The top and bottom sheets of plywood are 3/4 inch Birch veneer. I used a jigsaw to cut out the bottom board to fit inside the bracing. The cross members on top of the stand are mounted with joist hangers to add strength to the joint as opposed to only screwing together from the end grain which is a very weak joint. The overall height of the stand is 36 inches which I much prefer over the shorter stands.
  13. Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I've turned my 29 gallon into my QT with bare bottom, heater, and an Aquaclear 70 HOB. I threw in a fake coral insert for hidey holes. Everything seems to be going well so far. I've got three blue/green chromis in QT right now and are going on week number two.
  14. Sorry Tai...I live in AL or else I'd have plenty for you.
  15. JB Water Weld Very easy to work with...bonds extremely well...potable water safe...and cheap! It can be found at your local Lowes or HD for around $5.00 a tube. I used it to bond all my Marco Rock and it worked great! Check out my post...I ran a DIY strength test on be the judge.